From Ealing to Regent Street

Saturday, October 29th , 2022

Da Moreno is a pizzeria in Ealing that sticks to the basics: no pasta here, or desserts, or salads, just pizza and some garlic bread. The room is quite bare bones too but that is fine, and the pizza was from a proper oven and made with care. Ealing is blessed with several very good pizzerias for some reason.

Alex Dilling now has his own restaurant at the Café Royal in Regent Street. This had only been open a few weeks when I visited but was already operating at a high level in the elaborate tasting menu that we tried. Quail en vessie was lovely, as was a mallard pithivier and a skilful sardine starter. The wine policy here (£100 corkage and the list is treated as a state secret) is a blemish on the place, but the cooking is some of the best that you will find in London.