Eating around Marseille

Saturday, September 17th , 2022

Marseille is known for two casual dishes: bouillabaisse and pizza (due to a large influx of Italian immigrants). An institution of bouillabaisse is Michel, but although the fish soup itself was fine I found it hard to like given its steep price point and sneering service. 

Both Pizza Sauveur and Pizzaria Etienne have long histories. Pizza Sauveur just seemed to be living off its past reputation and was unremarkable. By contrast, Pizza Etienne was genuinely excellent, with top notch pizza – well worth trying if you are in Marseille.

AM by Alexandra Mazzia is a modernist three Michelin star restaurant with a tasting menu made up of arrays of dishes brought out in phases, with over thirty separate dishes in total. As with any such tasting menu some dishes were better than others, but there were certainly some very enjoyable things amongst them. It is quite a lengthy experience but the adventurous diner will find plenty to like.

Marseille itself is a city that is gritty rather than pretty. It does have a fine cathedral but its most attractive features are the little coves and harbours of the calanques (pictured), a national park just a few miles from the city.