This is one of Shanghai's glorious 1920s colonial buildings, which in 2004 was restored and converted into an art gallery and designer shopping emporium, with four restaurants. The 7th floor roof terrace has a fabulous view over the river and Pudong, and is perfect for a relaxing drink. The restaurants are Laris, New Heights, the Whampoa Club, and Jean Georges (outpost of the New York chef Jean Georges Vongvichteren). On the top of the building is a little cupola, which has been cleverly converted into two private dining rooms, each with just one table. The upper cupula has a table for two, the lower one a table for up to eight. In these you can eat a menu prepared by any of the restaurants, or indeed even mix and match courses if you wish. We ate from Jean Georges:
Egg Caviar
Sea Scallops with Caper-Raisin Emulsion, Caramelized Cauliflower
Young Garlic Soup with Thyme, Sautéed Frog Legs
Turbot, Château Chalon Sauce, Tomato and Zucchini
Lobster Tartine, Lemongrass, Fenugreek Broth, Pea Shoots
Broiled Squab, Onion Compote, Sautéed Foie Gras, Corn Pancake
Dessert Tasting
Which as you can see gives you a chance to sample several dishes. Jean Georges is known for its use of spices with more classical dishes, and indeed this was on show tonight e.g. the lobster with lemongrass had very distinct spices. The ingredients were very good and the technical execution generally capable, though the scallops were rather overcooked. Desserts were an excellent mix of chocolate dishes, including a fine chocolate fondant.
Overall the food was good (15/20), but the great thing here is the setting. You are entirely on your own except for your waiter, and you look out over the river. Be aware that this is an original old cupola, so the view is actually rather restricted through the windows, though of course you only have to step outside for a breather between courses and you have the rooftop bar area. The waiter informed us that Tom Cruise ate here three times while shooting Mission Impossible 3, and Michael Schumacher also came here. You have the sense from this that it is a bit of an unusual novelty rather than a pure dining destination, but it is a seriously romantic setting.
Nic Moga
Well I didn't eat in the Cupola but I did sample from Jean Georges in the main dining room and found my meal here competent enough. I had the 8-course Seasonal menu which showed interesting touches of French-Asian fusion (steamed cod with spiced jade emulsion and celtuce, beef short ribs with lightly pickled Asian pear, etc). Service was a perfect mix of formality and friendliness. Recommended.