Rice Mill

Rice Mill was set up in December 2021 by owner Sandy Bedi (who was originally from a small town near Bangkok) with chef Charlie Thamachot. It has a dining room with some banquette seating and some wicker chairs, the room being decorated with a large mural along one wall. There was a large menu of Thai dishes, along with five different set menus at lunch priced from £12.95 to £15.95. We drank Singha beer at £4.95 for a bottle.

Tom yum goong (£8.95) differed a little from the classical recipe, using red onions rather than shallots, and also included cherry tomatoes but it was none the worse for that. The prawns were nicely cooked and the stock had the usual blend of Thai ingredients and spices, so lemongrass, galangal and kaffir lime leaves and came with a healthy kick of red chilli (13/20). Som tam salad (£11.95) had good raw papaya, shredded carrots and fine beans along with some leaves. The cherry tomatoes used were rather tasteless, which was a pity (12/20).

Better was chu chi pla (£21.95), two generously sized fillets of sea bass in red curry sauce with coconut milk and lime leaves. The fish was nicely cooked, the sauce was pleasantly spicy and the lime leaves added freshness (13/20). Massaman prawn curry (£14.95) was simmered in coconut milk and enlivened with spices including cinnamon, cardamon and star anise. There also seemed to be some cinnamon in this version. This was quite creamy in texture and was pleasant enough, the star anise flavour coming through a little more than I would have preferred (12/20). This relatively mild curry has disputed origins but combines ingredients from Malaysia, Persia and the Indian subcontinent.

Pad Thai noodles (£14.95) were pleasant, this version omitting the customary crushed peanuts. The thin rice noodles had quite a good texture and had garlic, bean sprouts, firm tofu and prawns (13/20). Coconut rice (£3.95) was fine. Pah gung salad (£17.95) comprised fresh shrimp that had been marinated in lime juice. They were accompanied by shallots, sliced onion, lemongrass, garlic, fresh lime leaves and mint. There was also a salad dressing that used as its basis a chilli sauce with assorted fire-roasted ingredients. This was an enjoyable dish, not quite as spicy as the som tam but with an enjoyable mix of flavours (13/20).

Service was excellent, our waitress being very attentive. The bill came to £78 per person with 15% service and five small beers to drink, but we over-ordered in order to try more dishes and had enough food left for a complete takeaway meal. More sensible ordering might have seen a bill of around £55 per head. Rice Mill was a very enjoyable experience and I will be happy to return.