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Mistral

223 Columbus Avenue at (Berkeley St.),, South End, Boston, 02116-5113, United States

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Mistral has a trendy dining room with a chic clientele: clearly a place to dress up in Boston. However the reason to come is not the glamorous waiting staff but Jamie Mammano’s fine cooking. I started with a tartare of tuna (described as “sushi grade” (I would not have wished to try the “not good enough for sushi” grade) that was shaped into a cylinder and was indeed of a high standard, laced with ginger and soy, the texture nicely balanced by some shredded crispy wonton (15/20). 

For my main course I had wild sea-bass, nicely timed and with excellent flavour, served on a bed of puy lentils with a delicate creamed horseradish sauce (15/20). Dessert was at a lower level, a reasonable apple tart with vanilla ice cream (12/20), and somewhat lukewarm coffee (12/20). However the savoury dishes were very good indeed, and the service was of a high standard. On my most recent visit a main course of scallops with a citrus sauce was superb.

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