Editor's npte. Following a gas explosion in Portman Square in late November 2014 that caused extensive damage, this restaurant is presently closed, and will reopen on March 14th 2015.
Giorgio Locatelli opened his own restaurant in February 2002 after his stint as head chef at Zafferano, where he led the kitchens from 1995. He had previously worked at The Savoy under Anton Edelman in the late 1980s and in Paris in the early 1990s at Laurent and Tour d’Argent. The Locanda Locatelli menu had anti-pasta priced at £9.50 - £13.50, pasta between £9 and £20, main courses at £23.50 to £32.50, with side dishes £4.50 extra, and desserts £6.75 to £12.50. The dining room seats around 70 diners, and on this visit the lighting was subdued to the point of gloom, making it tricky to even read the menu. I have no idea why restaurant managers do this.
The wine list was extensive, with over 500 selections, mostly from Italy but also featuring wines using Italian grapes from around the world. The list ranged in price from £15 to £848, with a median price of £79 and an average mark-up of around 2.7 times retail price, which is pretty fair for central London. Example wines included Orvieto Tragugnano Sergio Mottura 2011 at £38 for a wine that you can find in the high street for £14, Jassarte Guado Al Melo Azienda Agricola Castagneto Carducci 2006 at £59 for a wine that retails at around £22, and Tignanello Antinori 2006 at £155 for a wine that will set you back £77 in a shop. Bread is good here, from the bread sticks to the soft focaccia (16/20).
Salad of artichoke with shallots, Parmesan and rocket was pleasant, the rocket excellent though the pickled artichokes were a touch sharp (15/20). Better was a salad of potato and green beans with shallot dressing and a shaving of black truffle, the vegetables carefully cooked, the truffle lifting the dish (16/20). Linguine of lobster with tomato, chilli and garlic was enjoyable, the lobster tender, the pasta having good texture, though the chilli was subtle to the point of invisibility. The tomatoes had good texture, the seasoning on the edge between bold and over-salty, but for me this worked well (16/20). Ravioli of veal with veal stock was also good, the fresh pasta having very good texture, the meat good, though the stock could have had more intensity (16/20).
For dessert, ice creams were well made, though an Amalfi lemon Eton mess had pleasant meringue but was a little lacking in lemon freshness (barely 15/20). Coffee was good, as it should be at £4.75 for a double espresso. If you ask for a top-up of your espresso then that is another £4.75 on top; given that a coffee costs a restaurant perhaps 20p this seems to me sheer greed. The bill came to £109 a head for three courses and a nice bottle of wine. Service was capable, with topping up efficient, though it never felt particularly friendly. Overall this is much as I remember Locanda Locatelli: a well-drilled, efficient operation with good food at a high price point. It is a bit pricier than Zafferano and less good than Apsleys. Locanda Locatelli is a place I can admire rather than love.
Further reviews: 13th Aug 2021 | 23rd Apr 2015 | 01st Mar 2010
cate blackmore
Booked on the phone a month in advance no problem via a very friendly female staff member for what resulted in the best lunch ever! The atmosphere was glorious, the service from everyone warm friendly, helpful and informative, and the food even better. My broad bean, rocket and pecorino pasta sung of the spring and a new year coming into blossom (I hope my year can equal the dish's delightful fresh intensity), the zucchine fritte are gleeful, whilst the monkfish with walnuts, capers and samphire was a meaty, salty but creamy delight -an incredibly delicious indulgence. Fine wine - even the house by the glass. As for the bread, olive oil and petit fours - expected treats of the highest order! Highly recommended and for the quality one gets great value for an admitted so expensive. The only problem being that one can afford such luxury all too rarely!
Adrian Turner
We've have lunch here once or twice a year for several years now - we like the understated decor and wouldn't blink if Monica Vitti and Michelangelo Antonioni wafted in on a 60s time capsule. It's drop-dead elegante. Our lunch yesterday was a delight - starters of artichoke salad and scallops on a stunning celeriac puree; then venison with something new to us - a crema fritta - and veal kidneys with mash. The place was packed on this wet and raw Saturday.
Stewart Ibbotson
Went in April 2008 and booked by phone one Month in advance eventually got through after an hour and could only get a 2130 booking? You are probably right to say personal callers have a better chance but it is very difficult when you live as far north as we do. The service was very slow so we eventually left 30 minutes after midnight, but i suppose that is normal in London circles. The food ahh! there we were pleasantly surprised was a Meal of excellent quality and cooked with that rare thing passion! Well done Georgio but please think of us out of towners who wish to dine at your Fine establishment again in the future perhaps to be able to book 3/4 Months in advance would be a good start.