At this visit the same delicate cheese straws were served as we looked at the menu, which has an extensive set of wines by the glass (offered as either 125ml or tasting measures of 75 ml). Additional wines by the bottle are available printed on a separate wine list on request. This is worth investigating since, as pointed out in my previous review, there are some bargains at the high end.
Pate en croute had plenty of flavour and good texture, encased in a delicate pastry crust and with a layer of meat jelly. Although not in the league of the dazzling version at Rotonde near Lyon, this was certainly a well-made dish (15/20). Crab remoulade with dill and fennel was served in a cocktail glass on a base of caviar. The crab tasted very fresh, the herbs subtly lifting the flavour of the dish, the caviar offering contrast (15/20).
Sea bass came with an assortment of vegetables including broccoli, cauliflower and radish. The fish was timed well and the vegetables lightly cooked, the seasoning a touch on the bold side (14/20). Venison came with “sauce grand veneur “ (huntsman’s sauce), a classic accompaniment for game. This involves an initial pepper sauce enriched with game trimmings. The sauce was excellent, albeit quite rich, the meat cooked pink and having good flavour (15/20).
Sable Breton was just as good as at my previous visit (see earlier review), a refreshing and skilfully made dish with a lovely textural balance (17/20). Hot chocolate mousse used a rich 70% cocoa chocolate, topped with cocoa ice cream. This was rich and indulgent, possibly more than ideal; some sort of balancing element to cut through the richness would have been welcome (15/20).
Coffee was good, from a company called Bean About Town. Service was attentive and the dishes arrived at a good pace. The bill came to £166 a head, but that included some pretty serious wine. One caveat here is that the wine list is so tempting that it is easy to run up a larger bill than you originally intend, though the actual mark-up levels are not that high. I have no problem with this, since each diner can choose to what extent they indulge, and can either just have water or a cheap glass or two of wine, or taste some very high-end wine indeed at tolerable prices, as they wish. To whinge about this would be like saying that Hamleys offers too tempting a selection of toys. If you ordered modest wine then a typical cost per head might be around £80. The cooking here is of a high standard, especially at the dessert stage, and the wine choice is a treat.
Further reviews: 06th Jul 2024 | 23rd Nov 2023 | 22nd Apr 2023 | 22nd Mar 2016 | 07th Nov 2015
alan fowle
Had the crab remoulade - fresh , light , then the sea bass with almost transparent vegetables, quite delicious, The wine selection was interesting and proved costly - my fault -excellent food , tables too close , lighting at night -stark , which I told the head waiter,Could be a regular go to if the ambience was more intimate- will check to see if they have improved the lighting in a month or so .