Koyal

Koyal has now been operating for a few months, the creation of Nand Kishor, the former head chef of Dastaan. This is a much larger affair than the tiny Dastaan, with room for 75 customers in the main dining room, and perhaps another couple of dozen in a further room at busy times, which these days is most evenings.

The bhajias here are always a star dish. Hara pyaaz, aloo and palak ke bhajiye was a trio of crisp fritters made with potato, spinach, spring onion, served with a chutney of perilla seeds and peanuts. It is remarkable how such humble ingredients can be transformed into something as delicious as this, the fritters crisp and yet avoiding dryness, the chutney going really well with them (easily 16/20).

Chicken tikka had generous pieces of chicken fillet marinated in yoghurt and spices, grilled and served with a mint and coriander chutney. The meat was beautifully tender, having nicely absorbed the lively blend of spices. The chutney was excellent too, and indeed this is a feature of the cooking here: all the little garnishes and chutneys alongside the main dish elements are in themselves classy (16/20).

Lamb chop was marinated in yoghurt, Kashmiri chilli, garam masala, lime and jaggery before being cooked. The result is a superbly tender piece of meat enriched with a complex and balanced set of spices, served with a lovely date chutney (16/20). Chicken lollipops tasted a bit better today than at my last visit, the seasoning lively ad with just enough salt to keep things interesting without overwhelming the crisp chicken. On the side was a very good coconut and chilli garlic chutney (15/20).

Stone bass tikka has stone bass with roasted garlic and black pepper cooked in the tandoor, served with a cherry tomato salsa (15/20). Gosht sagiwala was lamb cooked with spinach and an onion and tomato masala. The lamb was very tender and the spinach here is also excellent (comfortably 15/20). As a side dish, jakhiya garlic aloo has pieces of potato tossed with wild mustard from India, garlic and fresh coriander. The potatoes kept their texture well and there was plenty of flavour from the garlic and mustard (15/20). Makhani dhal was a lovely version of the classic dish, black lentils cooked overnight with butter and a tomato masala, the result beautifully rich and complex, the lentils still retaining some texture to give the dish body (16/20). Garlic naan on the side was hot and fresh, soft and pliable (15/20).

Service was very good and the bill was £82 a head. The cooking at Koyal has now settled into a string rhythm a few months after it opened. The dishes here, cooked by the former head chef of Dastaan, are now essentially at the same level as that restaurant. There is no greater praise than this. Nand is one of the most talented Indian chefs operating in the UK, and the food here is as good as anywhere.

Further reviews: 06th Dec 2024 | 06th Oct 2024