Koyal

I have written previously about the history of Koyal and its chef, the gifted Nand Kishoor. Situated in Surbiton, it is a much larger premises than nearby Dastaan, which is where Nand cooked previously.

Hara pyaaz, aloo and palak ke bhajia are a sophisticated take on the familiar onion bhajia. Here a mix of spinach, potato and onion (pyaaz) is used along with a blend of spices, the result being crisp and packed with flavour. This is a world apart from the onion bhajias that we are used to in local tandoori restaurants, and a demonstration that a really skilled chef can make even a humble dish into something special (16/20).

Chicken tikka and chicken lollipops were made using the pre-ordered Arnaud Tauzin chicken from the Landes, arguably the best chicken in the world. The flavour of this bird is remarkable when compared to the chicken that we are used to eating in the UK. As it was a pre-order special, I am hesitant to score it, but it would be pushing 18/20 if I did.

Tandoori prawns were also lovely. Large and beautifully marinated, superbly cooked (16/20). Methi chicken, also made from the Tauzin chicken, was also glorious, the chicken enriched by the fenugreek leaves in the curry sauce. The regular methi chicken here is a delight, and this was even better due to the better-tasting chicken.  

Wild boar vindaloo was a revelation. This is a variation on the classic pork vindaloo of Goa, but in this case, using wild boar shoulder, which has better flavour. The depth of flavour in this dish is remarkable, a gorgeous, rich blend of spices complementing the superb flavour of the meat. The richness is balanced by the use of toddy vinegar, a Goan speciality that is made from the fermentation of coconut palm sap (17/20).

Mustard potatoes on the side were also lovely, the wild mustard sourced from the foothills of the Himalayas. The potatoes were carefully cooked and retained their texture well, with a flavour enhanced by garlic, curry leaves and fresh coriander (16/20). Pistachio kulfi was a very enjoyable way to finish the meal, with plenty of pistachio flavour and good texture (15/20).

The bill came to £117 per person, with lots of food, the pre-ordered chicken and cocktails and wine to drink. A more typical cost per person might be around £60. The service was very good. Koyal serves terrific food, definitely up there with any starred restaurant in central London.

Further reviews: 18th Sep 2025 | 12th Aug 2025 | 02nd Mar 2025 | 27th Dec 2024 | 06th Dec 2024 | 06th Oct 2024