The Dysart

The Dysart, set back from the main road in leafy Petersham, has a talented youg chef Kenneth Culhane, a winner of the prestigious Roux Scholoarship in 2010. Formerly a pub, The Dysart has a log fire, stone floors and widely spaced tables. The piano in the room reflects the interests of the owner, who studied music and hosts concerts here some evenings. As noted previously the wine list is both interesting and priced very kindly by the standards of London. The tasting menu was £60, a three course set menu just £27.50.

Tonight I tried quail with fermented chilli, leeks and locally grown herbs. The quail was carefully cooked and the spice level was controlled, clearly present yet not overwhelming the flavour of the meat (14/20).

Veal sweetbreads with fresh walnuts and grenobloise sauce (lemon, capers, butter and parsley) were velvety, the walnuts bringing a useful contrasting texture (15/20). 

Sea bass with lemon celeriac, spiced kaffir lime and green chilli sauce was terrific, the wild Cornish bass having great flavour, the chilli sauce bringing an enjoyably lively kick to the dish, the celeriac having excellent texture (16/20).

A glazed white peach was ripe, flavoured with lemon thyme and praline rose, though this was a rather simpler dish than the savoury ones (14/20). As ever the service was very friendly, the bill coming to £131, albeit with plenty of excellent wine. If you shared a modest bottle of wine from the keenly priced list then a typical cost per head with coffee from the carte meny would be around £70, though you could also get away with less than this.