The Crown at Burchetts Green

The Crown at Burchetts Green, opposite a village green and not far from Maidenhead, changed ownership in 2022. The head chef here is now Jules Gurr, who works under executive chef and owner Dominic Chapman, who also runs The Beehive. The entrance to the pub leads into a bar, which in turn opens out into the dining room with a conservatory area to the right as you enter. In addition to the main menu, there was a three-course lunch menu available at £24.95.

The wine list had 40 labels and ranged in price from £28 to £495, with a median price of £73 and an average markup to retail price of 3 times, which is quite fair these days. Sample references were Picpoul de Pinet Puech de Claude Domaine Gaujal 2022 at £42 for a bottle that you can find in the high street for £13, Rioja Reserva Vina Alberdi Rioja Alta 2018 at £68 compared to its retail price of £23, and Gaia Assyrtiko Thalassitis 2021 at £85 for a wine that will set you back £34 in the high street. For those with the means there was Domaine Georges Vernay Condrieu Les Chailels d'Enfer 2020 at £280 compared to its retail price of £96, and Chateau Pichon Baron 2015 at £495 for a wine whose current market value is £173.

We began our meal with a Scotch egg (£5.25), made to order and with a quail egg at its centre. The outside was crisp the centre had plenty of flavour and was well seasoned; the quail egg yolk could have been a touch runnier to my taste but this was certainly a very enjoyable Scotch egg (14/20). My starter was a tarte fine of Isle of Wight tomatoes with goat cheese (£15), topped with frisee (curly endive) lettuce. The pastry base was extremely good, thin and delicate. The tomatoes worked very well with the goat cheese, and the greenery of the lettuce completed a lovely summery dish. Although quite simple, the balance here was excellent, and the pastry work was classy (16/20).

For the main course I had a beef pie (£25) made with Hereford beef, the pastry lid glazed and delicate, while the filling had plenty of meat as well as root vegetables, combining to a rich and satisfying flavour combination (15/20). On the sides, seasonal greens were lightly cooked and provided some balance to the richness of the pie. Rosemary flavoured potatoes were also carefully cooked.  

My dessert was apricot Bakewell tart (£15), which again had good pastry, while the bang in season apricots had lovely flavour. This came with an apricot compote and vanilla ice cream, the fruit providing enough acidity to cut through the richness of the pasty (15/20).  Coffee here is Musetti, an industrial coffee that I am not fond of, so we drank tea instead. This came with some very good pate de fruit and a little chocolate. The bill came to £96 per person all in, including £27 corkage. Service was very good, led by manager Alex. This was a very enjoyable meal, the cooking being of a high standard and the menu appealing. The Crown is in safe hands.

Further reviews: 02nd Jul 2022 | 18th May 2021 | 30th Sep 2020 | 14th Feb 2020 | 26th Jul 2019 | 05th Jul 2019 | 16th Mar 2019 | 08th Mar 2019 | 07th Dec 2018 | 06th Jul 2018 | 29th Mar 2018 | 23rd Sep 2017 | 20th Jan 2017 | 09th Apr 2016 | 05th Sep 2015 | 28th Mar 2015 | 10th May 2014 | 02nd Nov 2010