Charley Noble

Charley Noble is the casual bistro sister of Whitebait, set in what appeared to be a former bank. The restaurant name is somewhat obscure. It is actually a nickname for a smokestack on a ship’s galley, the name coming from a 19^th century British merchant vessel captain called Charles Noble, who insisted that the copper smokestack be kept brightly polished, as well as kept clear of soot. Quite why this is the restaurant name eludes me but doubtless there is a story behind it. The restaurant is a popular place and there are no reservations taken, just walk-ins, so you may have to wait a while. The dining is large and high-ceilinged, with closely packed tables and hard surfaces, so the noise levels are quite high when it is busy. The menu offers a selection of steaks cooked on a wood-fired grill, but there are plenty of other options too.

The wine list featured labels such as Zephyr Gewurtztraminer 2016 at a bargain NZ$39 for a bottle that you can find in the high street for NZ$27, the excellent Markus Molitor Bernkasteler Badstube Kabinett Riesling 2014 at NZ$79 compared to its retail price of NZ$26, and Ata Rangi Pinot Noir 2015 at NZ$150 for a wine that will set you back NZ$101 in a shop.

We tried tomato arancini, which had a suitably crisp outer coating and nicely cooked rice flavoured with tomato inside (13/20). Chicken parfait was very enjoyable, having smooth texture and plenty of flavour. On the side was very good toasted sourdough (14/20).

Mushroom ravioli was pleasant, the pasta being made from scratch in house and having quite good texture, prepared with spinach, ricotta cheese and garlic crumbs as well as mushrooms (13/20). Fettucine with beef ragu was made using New Zealand wagyu beef. I believe that the posher cuts are used in Whitebait, and the cheaper cuts find their way into this. The pasta was good and the ragu was all right, though it could have had greater intensity and bolder seasoning (13/20). Baked truffled cauliflower was decent, the texture of the cauliflower pleasant, though I am not sure that too many real truffles were harmed in the making of it (12/20).

Service was reasonable. The bill came to NZ$129 for two, which works out at £34 per head including some glasses of wine. If you shared a modest bottle of wine and had three courses then a typical cost per head might be around £55. Charley Noble was a lively place with capably cooked food and an excellent wine list, and as long as you don’t mind the noise and bustle then you will eat and drink well here.