Brilliant

The Brilliant has been a Southall institution since 1975, when the Anand family opened it after moving from Kenya. The name is the name of the nightclub they formerly ran in Nairobi. Over the years the reputation of the place grew, and they bought the neighbouring premises and expanded, and expanded again. Now it is a large, bustling place with a large function room on the first floor. However, this is the last week of service here. Gulu Anand is retiring, and his daughter will keep the flame alive by opening a new restaurant in a new development near Southall railway station, the new restaurant opening at the end of April 2025. 

Although I usually drink beer here, from a choice of Kingfisher or Cobra or Tusker, there is a short wine list. It is kindly priced, starting at just £16. What was the last time you saw a wine at £16 on a restaurant list in London? Note that Dom Perignon champagne was just £150 yet in a shop the current vintage will set you back £216. Waddling Duck Pinot Noir was £26 compared to £21 retail. 

Fish pakora was tilapia fried in a light batter, served with an excellent tamarind and onion chutney (14/20). Aloo tikki had a centre of fried potatoes, with tamarind chutney, yogurt, sec and crushed papdi. This was lively and delicious, the spices quite vibrant and the contrast of textures working well (14/20).

Aloo gobi was very good, both cauliflower and potatoes retaining their texture well, the spices of the masala gentle but distinct (14/20). Channa masala had tender chickpeas cooked with a tomato and onion base enlivened with spices (14/20). Palak paneer had quite good paneer that avoided the chewiness that can easily afflict this dish. Methi murgh was good, the piece of chicken tender and resting in a rich masala sauce with plenty of fenugreek flavour (14/20). This is not quite as good as the Delhi Social version with its greater use of fresh fenugreek leaves, but this is still a very enjoyable dish. 

Romali roti is a thin bread made with a mix of wheat flour and all-purpose flour, the dough stretched out very thin and flipped in the air, cooked for seconds on a hot steel hemisphere, the bread folded and tossed and cooked, folded and tossed and cooked again. This is one of my favourite Indian breads but it is rarely encountered in London, partly due to the space taken by the steel hemisphere and partly that the bread requires some skill to make properly. The version here is very good indeed, with an airy texture (14/20).

For dessert, malai (almond) kulfi had smooth texture and plenty of flavour (13/20). Carrot halwa, made from grated carrots, milk, cardamon and ghee was very good, not too sweet and not overly bitter as some versions can be (14/20). Service was capable if rather stretched tonight, with tables being turned left and right on this Sunday evening. The bill came to £56 each with beer to drink and enough food left over to pack for a whole extra meal. I will greatly miss The Brilliant, but look forward to its next incarnation in Southall in a month or so from now.

Further reviews: 16th Jul 2023 | 12th Feb 2023 | 18th Dec 2022 | 17th Sep 2022 | 17th Aug 2021 | 13th Sep 2020 | 05th May 2019 | 06th Aug 2017 | 05th Jun 2016