Bonhams

This was the first time that I have been to Bonhams in the evening. It recently started opening on Thursday evenings to supplement its usual weekday lunch opening; if you come in the evening bear in mind that you need to use the Haunch of Venison Yard entrance rather than the Bond Street auction house entrance. Four courses were £45, with a wine flight available at an additional £35 a person. The bread here is made from scratch in the kitchen and is terrific, lovely sourdough with excellent texture (17/20). A gougere nibble was a welcoming way to start the meal, with excellent choux pastry and plenty of cheese flavour (16/20). 

Flamed Cornish mackerel was cooked lightly, served with a tartare of the fish encased in pickled radish discs, along with a slice of avocado and sesame dressing (15/20). Potato gnocchi came with girolles, parsley and a vin jaune sauce. The gnocchi had very good texture and the mushrooms had plenty of flavour (16/20).

Squab pigeon came as both breast and leg, served with peas, lingonberry, fresh almonds and a sauce made from the liver of the bird. The pigeon was of good quality, the peas perhaps a touch undercooked but the sauce was rich and was nicely complemented by the almonds (15/20).

Tulamine raspberry “millefuille” came with elderflower sorbet, crème Chantilly and balsamic vinegar. The raspberries had excellent flavour, the vinegar an interesting touch that balanced the cream nicely (15/20).

The bill came to £154 a head, but that was with plenty of superb wine and an extra cheese course. If you ordered modestly then a typical cost per head would be around £70 or so. This is fair value for excellent food, and the wine list is one of the best in London, with fine growers and modest prices, especially at the higher end of the list.