Apsleys

Below are brief notes from a meal in March 2011.

The conservatory at the Lanesborough has seen a number of restaurant incarnations over the years. The latest, opening in the late summer of 2009, is an Italian venture with guidance from Heinz Beck of three Michelin star Pergola in Rome; he has recruited chef Massimiliano Blasone, who earned a Michelin star in Tuscany and has worked with Beck before. The large dining room has a large skylight and a raised dining area surrounding a central space, which can accommodate 70 or so diners at capacity. Twenty chefs work in the kitchen. I have had several meals here, and the cooking has developed to the stage where I believe it is the best Italian food in London.    

There was a three course set lunch at £25. a five course tasting menu was £59, or £89 with wine pairing, or there was a seven course version at £79 (£119 with wine pairing). Bread is made from scratch and served warm, a choice of ciabatta, focaccia, white slices, brown slices with cereal, breadsticks and strega flatbread. The focaccia was the best for me (17/20) and the flat bread was good (16/20, though the others seemed to me around the 15/20 level). Wine mark-ups are high, with the excellent Jermann Vintage Tunina 2007 an excessive £107 for a wine that costs around £30 in the shops, while Roberto Anselmi Capitel Foscarino 2009 was listed at £45 for a wine that retails at around £15.

Highlights of a recent meal were tagliolini with lobster and almonds, which featured absolutely superb pasta and carefully cooked lobster, the dish carefully seasoned (18/20 is perhaps a mean score). Pumpkin tortellini with white truffle and castelmagno cheese was also a superbly opulent dish (18/20). Beef fillet was lovely, with spinach and a good red wine reduction, with spinach on the side and a little 40 year old balsamic vinegar to balance the richness of the dish (17/20). The cooking at this restaurant seems to be steadily improving since its opening.

Further reviews: 18th Dec 2013 | 21st Sep 2013 | 23rd Jul 2013 | 05th Apr 2013 | 09th Feb 2013 | 08th Oct 2012 | 01st Sep 2010 | 01st Feb 2010 | 01st Dec 2009 | 01st Sep 2009