Laurent

This two Michelin star establishment in a mock Corinthian building in leafy surroundings was blessed with a very pretty terrace where the tables could be placed in clement weather. It was a large place, seating around 100 people, and the service on the lovely summer’s night we dined there was a little stretched. We began with an excellent caramelised onion tart, and then I had langoustines that were cooked in a light batter and served very simply, just with a few drops of basil sauce (16/20). My wife's summer salad was pleasant but really had nothing to lift it above the ordinary (15/20 at best). 

For my main course I had very good Bresse chicken -for once available for one person rather than having to be shared - served with a simple reduced stock of the cooking juices and a rather disconcerting herb salad that was overwhelmed by mint (17/20). My wife's John Dory was pleasantly cooked, with an orange sauce with a hint of ginger (15/20). 

The cheeses were in good condition (17/20), a wide selection of the classics of France: Brie, Reblochon, St More, Epoisses, Brillat Savarin, Ronne de Savoie, Bleu de Bresse. A raspberry “tart” was really just a piece of shortbread with fresh raspberries on top, served with good vanilla ice cream (15/20). Macaron au citron had a somewhat heavy base, with some good wild strawberries (15/20). We had some fine Trimbach Clos St Hune 1993 from an extensive list that had less gouging mark-ups than is often the case in top Paris places. Overall though, this is really just a 16/20 restaurant, and should probably receive at best one Michelin star, not the two it actually has. Although the setting is lovely, the prices are very high indeed for what you get.