Kadiri

Kadiris in Willesden was founded by Jamil Kadiri in 1974. It heavily promotes its biryanis but the menu has a wide range of north Indian dishes. It is in the main high street and is quite a small place, seating a couple of dozen diners. There is no alcohol license, but they serve decent lassi as well as soft drinks. 

Aloo papri chaat (£7) is a dish developed in Mumbai, a mix of chickpeas, pieces of crisp wheat crackers, peas, tamarind chutney and yoghurt with a little pomegranate. This was excellent, the contrast of textures good, the chickpeas tender, and the sweet and sour of the tamarind working well, with the yoghurt a soothing counterpoint to the spices used (14/20).

Chicken biryani (£15) was good rather than dazzling. There was no pastry lid, and the chicken was a touch dry, Nonetheless, the rice was nicely layered and laced with saffron, and was certainly better than some versions (13/20). For serious biryani my benchmark is still Adaa in Hyderabad. I also tasted a prawn biryani, and again this was quite good, with the prawns carefully cooked and the rice also well prepared.

A side dish of aloo gobi (£9.50) was good, with both cauliflower and potatoes retaining their texture well, and having a well-judged level of spicing (13/20). I also tasted a channa masala, which was fine, and a tarka dhal that had quite good texture. Garlic naan (£4) was quite enjoyable, with reasonably soft texture (13/20).

Service was efficient, almost too much so with my starter arriving while I was still eating popadoms and the main course arriving swiftly after that. Portions were very generous e.g. the aloo papri chaat was ample for two people. My bill came to £42 per person with plenty of food left over for a takeaway, though £35 is probably a more typical spend. Kadiri’s delivered an enjoyable meal, admittedly at an express pace, with nicely made food at a moderate price. I would certainly be happy to return when next in Willesden.

Further reviews: 02nd Aug 2015