Bo Bech at Paustian

Sadly, Bo Bech closed in July 2010. The following notes are of historical interest only. 

Chef Bo Bech cooks at the Paustian restaurant, situated in a very unlikely setting in the docks area, with a partial view over the harbour but directly opposite a vast red-brick industrial building (in some ways reminiscent of the setting of Aqua in Wolfsburg). The dining room is large, light and airy, with white walls and well-spaced tables. Nibbles of tomato tart, creamy onion ring and gravadlax pickled cucumber were capably made and a pleasant introduction to the meal (15/20).  

The wine list was compact but well put together, but as is usually the case in Denmark, prices can be daunting. Wines included Dr Loosen Spatlese Wehlehner Sonnenuhr 2006 for DK 595 (£70) compared to a UK retail price of around £15, Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2008 at DK 855 (£77) for a wine that you can buy in the UK for around £16. At the higher end mark-ups are less fierce e.g. the sublime Guigal La Mouline 2000 for DK 2,500 (£295) compared to a UK retail price of around £154. 

For lunch, a set lunch is available for DK 375, which is around the price of a main course in the evening. Amuse-bouche of beetroot ravioli with cherry oil and mustard mousse was a well balanced and pretty dish, the mustard well-controlled and the beetroot itself having excellent taste (16/20). Bread was a choice of sourdough (made from scratch here on the premises today, but sometimes bought in), crisp-bread made with malt, and butterscotch rolls; I thought the sourdough in particular was excellent (17/20 for this).  

Langoustines were of good quality, fried lightly but properly, and served with broken potatoes, poached egg with nasturtium leaves as garnish (16/20). Turbot was poached, served with spinach and green strawberries, the combination working better than it sounds, the fish itself having very good flavour and nicely timed (16/20). I had leg of poussin that had been marinated in its own juices, served with excellent morels and summer truffles; this was a simple but most enjoyable dish, the mushrooms and poussin combining well, the meat having plenty of flavour (17/20).

A pair of French cheeses (Comte and Laguiole) were in decent condition (15/20). A raspberry dessert featured baked and candied raspberries with raspberry sorbet, the fruits having very good flavour, the sorbet smooth (16/20). Espresso coffee was particularly good, served with a vast bowl of orange candy floss, and unexpected and pleasant touch. Service was very good indeed, the waiters knowledgeable about the dishes, as well as being friendly and efficient. Overall this was a most enjoyable meal; this is restaurant that thoroughly deserves its Michelin star.

The bill was DK 580 (£68) per person for the set lunch and three glasses of excellent German Spatlese between us.