Eight Over Eight reviewed Sunday, August 20th, 2006
Eight Over Eight in Chelsea is identical in appearance to E&O, and fortunately the food is almost as good as well. Bentleys shows why you should never go to a fish restaurant on a Monday.
Eight Over Eight reviewed Sunday, August 20th, 2006
Eight Over Eight in Chelsea is identical in appearance to E&O, and fortunately the food is almost as good as well. Bentleys shows why you should never go to a fish restaurant on a Monday.
The oddness that is Cocoon Saturday, August 12th, 2006
Cocoon is like an Austin Powers set, but the food is surprisingly good. Zafferano produces a fine wild sea bass dish.
Pied a Terre reopens Sunday, August 06th, 2006
Pied a Terre shines after its reopening. Zuma shows why it is so popular, and Patara is the best Thai restaurant in London. High Road House opens in Chsiwcik, and the luvvies love it.
Noisette does its best in an awkward site Saturday, July 29th, 2006
Noisette is pleasant but expensive, and Bjorn van der Horst shows the dining room his extensive English vocabulary. Galvins Bistro is fine, but I cannot really see what the fuss is about. Excellent Indian cooking at Rasa Maricham and the Brilliant in Southall, and the usual at Zafferano.
Notting Hill Brasserie reviewed Saturday, July 22nd, 2006
Mark Jankels is a fine chef, and the Notting Hill Brasserie an excellent spot. Bellamys in Mayfair was rather dull, but I have enjoyable meals at Trompette, Rasa Maricham and the Thai Bistro. Le Talbooth in Essex is a tragi-comic meal: beautiful setting, shame about the truly awful food.
Traditional and modern Indian cooking Saturday, July 15th, 2006
The Brilliant and Deya show the traditional and modern faces of Indian cooking, and both succeed very well. Zafferano is as good as ever in its newly expanded setting.
Galvin at Windows reviewed Sunday, July 09th, 2006
Galvin at Windows is solid, but not cheap, while its wine list has some larcenous mark-ups. Trompette in Chiswick is consistent as usual, while Yauatcha has superb dim sum.
The ambition that is Gilgamesh Friday, June 30th, 2006
Gilgamesh is the most ambitious opening in London since, well, a very long time. Despite its risky Camden market location it is already filling up with diners.
I visit Arbutus Sunday, June 25th, 2006
Arbutus seems perfectly pleasant to me, but I am surprised at the acclaim it is getting. Rasa Maricham serves up some tasty Keralan food, while Carluccio in W4 is downright poor.
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