Blog

The Square purrs along, though it lacks real excitement. Jeevan in Wembley is not worth the trip.

Eight Over Eight in Chelsea is identical in appearance to E&O, and fortunately the food is almost as good as well. Bentleys shows why you should never go to a fish restaurant on a Monday.

Cocoon is like an Austin Powers set, but the food is surprisingly good. Zafferano produces a fine wild sea bass dish.

Pied a Terre shines after its reopening. Zuma shows why it is so popular, and Patara is the best Thai restaurant in London. High Road House opens in Chsiwcik, and the luvvies love it.

Noisette is pleasant but expensive, and Bjorn van der Horst shows the dining room his extensive English vocabulary. Galvins Bistro is fine, but I cannot really see what the fuss is about. Excellent Indian cooking at Rasa Maricham and the Brilliant in Southall, and the usual at Zafferano.

Mark Jankels is a fine chef, and the Notting Hill Brasserie an excellent spot. Bellamys in Mayfair was rather dull, but I have enjoyable meals at Trompette, Rasa Maricham and the Thai Bistro. Le Talbooth in Essex is a tragi-comic meal: beautiful setting, shame about the truly awful food.

The Brilliant and Deya show the traditional and modern faces of Indian cooking, and both succeed very well. Zafferano is as good as ever in its newly expanded setting.

The series of occassional chef interviews continues with Jean-Christophe Ansanay-Alex, who has just opened Ambassade de l'Ile in South Kensington.

Galvin at Windows is solid, but not cheap, while its wine list has some larcenous mark-ups. Trompette in Chiswick is consistent as usual, while Yauatcha has superb dim sum.