Wines

Over the years I have been to more wine tastings than I care to admit to, so here are some of my observations and recommendations for wine. Wine is a consumer’s nightmare, with hardly any major brands but plenty of incomprehensible jargon and a minefield of apparently similar yet lengthy names, snobbery galore and traps like vintages – just how good a year was 1995 in the Loire?

The key conclusion I have reached is that it is the grower that is the critical element when choosing wine. Forget “terroir” and fashion - top growers simply don’t make bad wine, even in dodgy vintages. Unfortunately wine writing is generally deeply corrupt, almost entirely paid for by wine growers, so you can mostly forget about those tips you read in the wine magazines.

My general thoughts on Wine

Fine growers

If you buy any wine from the growers below it is most unlikely you will be disappointed.

	Name Country 1 . Montana This is the company that did as much as anyone to introduce New Zealand wines to the UK. Its basic Sauvignon Blanc may have been eclipsed by more ambitious New Zealand wines from Cloudy Bay and others, but this is still the reference standard for a new world Sauvignon Blanc. New Zealand 2 . Jermann "Silvio Jermann is for me the best producer of Italian white wines. His Vintage Tunina and ""Dreams"" wines in particular are magnificent, and are affordable mid-level wines rather than something only for a special occasion. His simpler Pinot Grigio is also excellent." Friuli, Italy 3 . Penfolds Penfolds is one of the leading producers in Australia, and has a history as winemaker going back to the early 1800s. Though a large winemaker (using grapes from 200 growers) they have very high standards, and all through their range the wines are well made. At the top end, the Grange is Australia's most expensive wine, while the Bin 707 is a superb Cabernet Sauvignon. In a blind tasting a few years ago I preferred the 707 to two first growth clarets. Australia 4 . E. Guigal The Guigal family winery, now run by Philippe Guigal (who took over from Marcel Guigal in 1997) is the best in the Rhone. It does a remarkably good quality basic wine that can be bought for around £6, but Guigal is famed for its superb single vineyard wines: La Mouline (my favourite), La Landonne and La Turque. These are rare and expensive, but really magnificent. I would also recommend his mid-level wines such as Brune et Blonde and even the Condrieu, whose Viognier is not normally one of my favourite grapes; you cannot go wrong with any wines form Guigal. Rhone Valley, France 5 . Torres "Torres is one of the most successful wine makers in Spain, based in the Penedes region but now also having interests as far as Chile. All their wines are good value, but at the summit is ""Mas la Plana"" or ""Black Label"", which is a genuinely fine wine, yet fairly priced at around £25 retail. The 1970 vintage famously beat two first growths in a blind tasting of French judges; indeed this put Torres on the map outside of Spain, as it was so widely reported." Spain, and Chile 6 . Mas de Daumas Gassac The white and red wines from Mas de Daumas Gassac are not from a famous wine region but from the midi. Aime Guibert bought an estate there and a friend pointed out how good the soil would be for wine-making. With assistance from Emile Peynaud of Bordeaux university he produced the first wines in 1978, and they soon caused a stir due to their high quality. They are now frequently seen on restaurant lists, and although the price has steadily increased, they are still fair value. Midi, France 7 . Bonny Doon One of the most interesting US producers, who shuns Chardonnay and Cabernet for more interesting varietals. The wines are always well made and good value. I have been to the vineyard (near Santa Barbara) and they are very welcoming. USA 8 . Ridge USA 9 . Boschendal South Africa 10 . Willi Opitz Austria 11 . Petaluma Australia 12 . Zind Humbrecht Alsace, France 13 . Trimbach Alsace, France 14 . Royal Tokay Hungary 15 . Weinart Argentina 16 . Thelema This is my favourite South African producer. The vineyards are in Stellenbosch and are, by the way, very pleasant to visit (I last went in 1997). Gyles Webb was one of the first South African wine makers to apply modern wine-making techniques and aim for classy wines. The cabernet sauvignon is excellent value. South Africa 17 . Wolf Blass This winery was established in 1966 and is widely recognised as one of Australia's best. The Black Label wine in particular (their best) is a very good wine indeed, and represents good value It is widely available in the UK. Australia 18 . Chateau Climens One of the great producers of sweet wine. After the sublime but expensive Yquem, this and Vhateau de Fargues are my next favourites of the French sweet wines. It is a Barsac wine (next to Sauternes). Sauternes, France 19 . Rioja Alta Spain 20 . Kistler "In my opinion these are the best white wines to come from the USA. Sonoma Coast is their more basic brand, but the treats are in the single vinyard wines e.g. Dutton Ranch, Vine Hill, Russian River. These are made much more in the style of a fine white burgundy rather than the ""big oak"" style that so many New World winemakers use. The problem is scarcity; there is a small allocation in the UK, and they are hard to find." USA 21 . De Bortoli De Bortoli has a range of wines but the one I am most taken with is the Noble One sweet wine, a botrytis affected Semillon. It is perhaps the best New World sweet wine. The Hunter Valley vineyard is fun to visit. Australia (Noble One only) 22 . JJ Prum The best wine producer in Germany. These wines are an absolute bargain, whether you go for the drier style is Riesling Kabinett, or the richer variations such as Auslese. O.W. Loeb in London sells these wines. Germany

And for treats:

	Name Country 1 . Château d’Yquem This is simply the best dessert wine in the world. It is expensive but it is glorious. Save up and enjoy. Sauternes, France 2 . Etienne Sauzet Burgundy makes the finest white wines in the world, and my favourite producer is Etienne Sauzet. The le Montarchet is glorious, and the Chevalair Montrachet is also magnificent. Burgundy, France 3 . Vega Sicilia Spain 4 . Latour Bordeaux, France