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This two Michelin star establishment in a mock Corinthian building in leafy surroundings is blessed with a very pretty terrace where the tables are placed in clement weather. It is a large place, seating around 100 people, and the service on the lovely summer’s night we dined there was a little stretched. We began with an excellent caramelised onion tart, and then I had langoustines that were cooked in a light batter and served very simply, just with a few drops of basil sauce (6/10). Stella’s summer salad was pleasant but really had nothing to lift it above the ordinary (5/10 at best).
For main course I had very good Bresse chicken, for once available for one person rather than having to be shared, served with a simple reduced stock of the cooking juices and a rather disconcerting herb salad that was overwhelmed by mint (7/10). Stella’s John Dory was pleasantly cooked, with an orange sauce with a hint of ginger (5/10).
The cheeses were in good condition (7/10), a wide selection of the classics of France: Brie, Reblochon, St More, Epoisses, Brillat Savarin, Ronne de Savoie, Blue de Bresse. A raspberry “tart” was really just a piece of shortbread with fresh raspberries on top, served with good vanilla ice cream (5/10). Macaron au citron had a somewhat heavy base, with some good wild strawberries (5/10). We had some fine Trimbach Clos St Hune 1993 from an extensive list that had less gouging mark-ups than is often the case in top Paris places. Overall though, this is really just a 6/10 restaurant, and should probably receive at best one Michelin star, not the two it actually gets. Although the setting is lovely, the prices are very high indeed for what you get. |
