Andy Hayler's Restaurant, Food and Hotel Guide

Food Blog - 18/01/2009

On Wednesday 22^nd the UK and Ireland Michelin Guide appears. The results appear to have been leaked out early (hat tip to JP). Who'd have thought that putting the list out on the internet five days ahead of schedule could possibly result in a leak?

There are certainly some controversial elements. No change at the 3 star level, so Gordon Ramsay and The Waterside Inn retain their three stars, luckily in my view. At the two star level there are two stars for Hibiscus (fair enough I suppose), The Dining Room at Whatley Manor in Malmesbury and (bizarrely) for Atelier Robuchon and Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester. I find these last two utterly surreal. Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester is even an “espoir” i.e. tipped for three stars in the future. All I can say is that something must have changed radically since I went there.

One star additions are Chapter One in Kent, offal specialist St John (er, why, and why now?), Ambassade de l’Ile and Helen Darroze (no surprises there), Murano, Kai and Semplice (I am pleased about this one) and l’Autre Pied. Both the Ledbury and Tom Aikens are one stars but listed as espoirs i.e. may get two stars one day. Other new one stars are Michael Wignall at the Latymer Bagshot), The Terrace at Montagu Arms (Beaulieu), Fraiche (Birkenhead), Purnell’s (Birmingham), Turners (Birmingham), The Burlington at the Devonshire Arms (Bolton Abbey), Lords of the Manor (Upper Slaughter), Casamia (Bristol), Manor House and Golf Club (Castle Combe), The Neptune (Hunstanton), Le Becasse (Ludlow), The Nut Tree (Murcott), Auberge du Lac (Welwyn) and the Manbrough on the Isle of Wight.

Places that appear to have lost a star are Juniper in Altrincham (which changed hands), The Goose (Britwell Salome), Graveytye Manor (East Grinstead), The Abbey (Penzance) and Tean in the Scilly Isles. Also 1 Lombard Street in London (maybe they were as rude to the inspector as they were to me) La Noisette (closed) Mirabelle (closed, for now at least), l’Escargot (long overdue in my mind) and Tamarind. Quite why they singled out Tamarind of the surreal clutch of Indian places with a star to demote escapes me, but I find Michelin’s grasp of Indian food tenuous at the best of times. Glenapp Castle in Ballantrae and Plas Bodegroes in Pwllheli also get the chop.

I have updated the location map of the UK Michelin restaurants.


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20/01/2009 - Edward lovett (England)

I work for a three AA rosette restaurant (a close standerd to a one star) in London as sous chef. We have been inspected by Michelin a few times they have spoken to the head chef and have been in the kitchen to have a look around. But we did not get a star (well, this year). It is some thing we would like but it's not something that drives us. My head chef has worked for some of the best restaurants(both two and three star places) in France, here he is cooking good food at good prices. There is no bull or gimmicks, and in the end of the day thats what food's all about. It is these type places that deserve a star. Yes we will never get two stars but one star is good food at good price, and thats is what one star is (well should be) about. I have eaten is quite a few of the top London restaurants and it hurts when you see some of the prices and when the food is not always that good. I buy the food at work and you if you phone around get deals, beef fillet tails at £10 a kg quail at 70 pence. pigeon at £1.40 lamb rack £4.50kg. So it is so bad that the big boys some time charge so much. Now a lot of the expensive restaurants do use expensive ingredients Kobe beef, white truffle £2200 a kg etc... but is is all very well if you want two or three stars.(we have put shavings of white truffles on are menu with house made pasta for £10 for starter and £18 pound for main, not to make any money just to make people happy and for use as chefs to have a play) but I think it is michelin's responsibility to encourage proper food, I know they have bib gourmand but I think there is a big gap between that an one star and there is a few restaurants that are at the right price and the standard of food and service that deserve one star. But oh well thats life maybe next year!!!!

19/01/2009 - gen.u.ine.ness (UK)

Andy, I absolutely agree with your comments on L'Atelier - I visited the restaurant less than a month ago and the experience was certainly a poor one. The cooking was barely 1 star standard, let alone two. Service there while pleasant, was in shambles - taking almost 20 minutes to get the menu to us, wine served after we have finished our starters and forgetting to bring me my mash. I might simply be cynical but is it me or is Michelin simply sucking up to celebrity chefs?

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