The Harwood Arms is the most exciting gastropub in London, serving high quality game and a series of dishes at a level to rival many "serious" restaurants. In the last few years there have been very few London openings with much culinary ambition, and those that have appeared have generally been foreign imports (Helene Darroze, Ambassade de l'Ile, Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester). Instead some of the most interesting food can be found in pubs such as the Sportsman in Kent, the Bull and Last in London and the Harwood Arms. However, gastropub food can be very poor indeed; with simplicity you rely on good quality ingredients and top-notch execution: there are no elaborate sauces and garnishes to hide behind. There are very few places that can pull this off successfully, but several meals at the Harwood Arms have shown to me that it can be done.
The interview with the Harwood Arms head chef is here. |
